Hidden Gems That Make Me Smile

Laura Mercier Limited Edition Mini Lip Glace Set

Colors: Quartz, Sparkling, Rose, After Hours, Blush

First of all I have to commend my bestie for finding this gem.  As we're aimlessly walking through Sak's 5th Avenue, swatching things on our hands and testing out lipglosses on ourselves, she comes up to me and says "What do you think of this?"  She pouts her lips and I immediately fall in LOVE (with the color, not her lips haha!).  She's wearing the color "Sparkling".  She then shows me that they come in a cute little mini set.  Of course I pretty much DIED by just looking at the colors.  I just had to get them!

And so I did!  For $48 you can't go wrong here.  These glosses are greatly pigmented so they're wonderful both alone and with lipstick.  The longevity is great (last longer when mixed with lipstick), they don't bleed out of the lip area and they're not sticky (if you know me you'd know that I HATE sticky glosses).  And don't let some of the sparkles fool you, they're so minimal that it works for everything (TV/Film & Print).  In fact, the "sparkles" add the effect of fuller lips.

They're a great addition to both a pro kit and personal use.  "Rose", "Sparkling", "After Hours" and "Blush" are great TV/Film, commercial, corporate, lifestyle and bridal colors.  "Quartz" is an amazing evening color and looks fabulous on women of color.

Available at: Saks, lauramercier.com, Bergdorf Goodman

Note: Just because it says "Limited Edition" doesn't mean that you still can't pick these up in regular size.  Only the Mini set is limited edition.

Sephora Collection Shimmer Harmony Gloss Palette

While hanging out with a makeup buddy of mine, we stumbled into Sephora and she told me about this little lipgloss set that she has in her kit.  This particular friend is one of the makeup artist for the Nate Berkus Show so I buy anything that she says works!  And boy does this little gloss set work!  You get 6 little color squares that look amazing on TV.  Just like the Laura Mercier, don't let the sparkles fool you.  They're really not that intense.  If you're looking for sparkle this is NOT the palette for you but if you want gloss that works, picks up great in camera and isn't sticky, this palette is perfect.

The colors here are a bit more sheer so if you're thinking that the last color to your right is too dark, think again.  Super great alone but I personally love to use them on top of lipliner.  I color the whole lip in with the lipliner of my choice and put the gloss on top.  I also love to mix the colors together and make my own color. The possibilities are endless with this palette.  All for $12!!

Available at: Sephora

Must Haves - Makeup Books

As much as I stress about how assisting is the best way to really learn the in's and out's of this business, I always love having some books to help out with the process.  When I first started out, these books were my bibles.  I read them from cover to cover, learning everything and anything that I could.  Some have really great information and some are just purely for eye candy purposes.  While I don't own every single one of them, I'm going to list them anyway.  I'll list them in two separate categories (which I own and read and which I've heard others highly recommend).

I'm sure many of you have read other books that are not in this list. So please, feel free to share your favorite books and I'll be sure to add them to the list.


IN MY LIBRARY
Color: A Course in Mastering the Art of Mixing Colors by Betty Edwards

Face Forward by Kevyn Aucoin

Making Faces by Kevyn Aucoin

The Art of Makeup by Kevyn Aucoin

Kevyn Aucoin a beautiful life: The Success, Struggles, and Beauty Secrets of a Legendary Makeup Artist by Kerry Diamond

Beautiful Brows: The Ultimate Guide to Styling, Shaping, and Maintaining Your Eyebrows by Nancy Parker & Nancy Kalish

Makeup Makeovers: Weddings: Stunning Looks for the Entire Bridal Party by Robert Jones

Makeup Makeovers: Expert Secrets for Stunning Transformations by Robert Jones

The Beauty of Color: The Ultimate Beauty Guide for Skin of Color by Iman

Asian Faces: The Essential Beauty and Makeup Guide for Asian Women by Taylor Chang-Babaian

Bobbi Brown Beauty by Bobbi Brown

Bobbi Brown Beauty Evolution : A Guide to a Lifetime of Beauty by Bobbi Brown

Bobbi Brown Teenage Beauty: Everything You Need to Look Pretty, Natural, Sexy and Awesome by Bobbi Brown


HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY OTHERS
The Makeup Artist Handbook: Techniques for Film, Television, Photography, and Theatre by Gretchen Davis & Mindy Hall

*Note: There is also a Second Edition.

Makeup Your Mind: Express Yourself by Francios Nars

About Face: Amazing Transformations Using the Secrets of the Top Celebrity Makeup Artist by Scott Barnes

The Technique of the Professional Make-Up Artist by Vincent Kehoe

*Note:  I hear this book is an oldie but a goodie.  Meaning its great to have but because it's a tad old, some things might be outdated.

My Favorite Drugstore Items (& some randoms)

I always stress how pro cosmetics are the way to go when working in the industry.  I stand by this 100% but, I do admit I have a few drugstore items that I use both in my kit and for personal use.  Some are great for both, some are only good for personal use.  Either way, they're probably items that you'd never think were any good just by looking at them or judging them by brand.  Here are a few items that I use:

MAYBELLINE

1. Expert Eyes 100% Oil Free AND Expert Eyes Moisturizing Eye Makeup Remover

It so happened that one time I forgot to pack my MUFE Sens'Eyes Makeup Remover for a job and I was kind of freaking out.  Remembering that on the way to the job I passed by a drugstore, I set up and excused myself for a quick 5 minutes while I ran like a bat our of hell to that drugstore.  I saw this product and with desperation I grabbed it.  Things happen for a reason because I fell in love with this makeup remover.  I even use it for more than removing eye makeup.  I remove lipstick with it too!

Use: Personal & In My Kit

2. Color Sensational Lipstain
I was curious about these lipstains because I've tried other lipstains before and have never been completely satistfied.  So in looking for a product that works for me I decided to give this a try.  Glad I did because it's awesome!  This stuff really does last!  I've put it on early in the morning, worked, talked, chew gum, drank, ate, talked some more and my lips STILL had color on them!  I like to pair it up with a tad of one of the many lipglosses I own (we'll get to that later).
Use: Personal
Colors I own: Feelin' Rosy, Cranberry Crush


3. Define-A-Line Eyeliner
A friend of mine was over and left her eyeliner behind.  I thought it was pretty interesting that she chose this as an eyeliner.  So, of course what do I do?  I test it (on the back of my hand).  I liked the smoothness of it and picked it up for myself.  I love to use it on the lash line the best and then use the smudger for a light smokey eye.  It's not waterproof but it has pretty good staying power.  I don't recommend you use it for the water line.  Because it's not waterproof, it'll bleed down to the under eye section and you'll have raccoon eyes in no time.
Use: Personal
Color I own: Ebony Black


4. Define-A-Brow Eyebrow Pencil
For my kit I use the Tarte emphasEYES brow pencil but I was looking for something more for ME.  I would be using this daily and didn't want to dish out $20 for the Tarte everytime I had to renew it.  So I pick up this little guy in hopes that it comes close to the Tarte one.  It's pretty close and totally worth it.
Use: Personal
Color I own: Dark Blonde


5. Define-A-Lash Volume Mascara
To me all mascara's are pretty much the same formula wise.  So when I buy mascara I tend to buy it because of the wand.  Yes I love that this mascara is waterproof (great for weddings) but I love the wand the most.  In fact, whenever I replenish, I keep the wand and throw the rest away.  I wash the wand thoroughly and keep it in my kit instead of buying disposable wands. I, of course have a good 4 or 5 wands I rotate and I always clean them between clients.  I feel like this wand really adds the volume it promises and it gets into those little inner corner hairs that are usually difficult to get to.  It's become my night time mascara.
Use: Personal & In My Kit
Colors I own: Very Black

COVERGIRL

1. Wetslicks Fruit Spritzers Lipgloss

I love it when I find lipglosses that aren't sticky!  One of my pet peeves is sticky, gooey and gross lipgloss that stretches out like saliva when you talk.  Gross!  Well you wont get that with the Covergirl Fruit Spritzers.  They're great alone or on top of lipstains or lipsticks.  They smell great and moisturize your lips.  Can't really go wrong with these.

Use: Personal (I don't have it in my kit but if I was ever in a situation where I needed a lipgloss, I'd use these).

Colors I own: Grape Splash, Berry Splash, Raspberry Splash

2. LashBlast Length Water Resistant Mascara

As silly as this may sound I bought this mascara because I love the ad with Drew Barrymore (the one with the 80's mesh gloves) haha!  It has become my favorite mascara of ALL TIME!  That wand is absolutely unbelievable!  Lashes looks super long and no clumping!  I keep this wand as well once I replenish the mascara.  I think I have 2 of the Maybelline ones and 4 of the CG ones.  I have to say...BUY THIS MASCARA!! 

Use: Personal & In My Kit

Colors I own: Very Black, Black Brown

3. Liquidline Blast Eyeliner

I actually recently ran into these at the drug store while picking up a lipstick for a bride.  Figured I'd try it out and possibly add it to my list of "drugstore items I love".  Well I love this.  Slides on like butter and its waterproof.  It smudges well and once settled it stays all day.  It kind of reminds me of the Laura Mercier Caviar Stick Eye Colour.  I'm not a big fan of the smudger it comes with so if you want to smudge I suggest using a brush or q-tip to get the effect.

Use: Personal & In My Kit

Color I own: Brown Blaze

4. Makeup Masters 3-in-1 Sharpener

I own lots of sharpeners (I tend to lose/misplace them and then somehow find them again).  I bought this one because it's needed to sharpen the Liquidline Blast Eyeliner but I kind of ended up really loving that although it has 2 different hole sizes it sharpens up to 3 different pencil sizes.  I can sharpen my jumbo Nars velvet lip pencils as well as regular sized lip/eyeliners all with one sharpener.

Use: Personal & In My Kit

RANDOMS

1. Victoria's Secret Beauty Rush Lipgloss

Let me start by saying that I am obsessed with this lipgloss.  So obsessed that it's all I've used since I can remember.  I love that its creamy and not gooey and sticky.  Which is why when Victoria's Secret decided to discontinue the one and only flavor I liked I was depressed for a week.  Then I freaked out because I didn't know what to do!  I went to eBay and bought like 4 of the same flavor (Cocoalicious).  But, they have lots more flavors.  This lipgloss ROCKS my socks.  I just happen to love chocolate and I felt the others were to fruity for my personal taste.

Use: Personal

Flavor I own: Cocoalicious (discontinued)

2. Bath & Body Works Liplicious Seasonal Core Lipgloss

Says it right in the title...SEASONAL.  I'll be stocking up on these because believe it or not, they are the exact same texture as the VS ones!  So, while I'm not ready to replace my cocoalicious, I do feel at ease that I have found myself a secondary option.  It comes in all sorts of yummy flavors such as "Whipped Vanilla" and "Frozen Daiquiri" to name a few.

Use: Personal

Flavor I own: Cocoa Creme (just can't resist that chocolate)

3. Jesse's Girl Cosmetics Liquid Glass

A funny but not unusual thing happened for me to pick up this lipgloss.  Again, went out, switched my purse and forgot to take any of my color lipglosses with me.  So while on the way to meet my hubby for dinner, I sneaked into whatever drugstore I saw first and picked the first "sexy looking lipgloss" not really knowing if I'd like it.  Well I do!  I was amazed that I spent $3 and came out with a pretty amazing gloss.  It's all sparkly and sexy looking.  The longevity isn't that great (most glosses aren't anyway) but the color is really nice.  So if you're ever in a pinch, know that you can pick up this gloss and not be disappointed.

Use: Personal

Color I own: Idolize

Brushes vs. Sponges

Foundation Brushes vs. Sponges.  To be honest they both do different things so to compare them would be pointless.  Also, each brush gives a different finish as well.  Below I'll discuss the one's I carry in my kit and why I like them so much.

1. Sonia Kashuk - Large Duo Fibre Multipurpose Brush - $12.99
I put this first because it is literally my all time favorite brush to use with liquid foundation.  It gives the most beautiful airbrushed finish but without the airbrush.  The end result is super smooth, flawless and seamless.  It's the brush I reach for first.  I find that it also covers more ground especially in the neck area.  It's also available in small for smaller areas such as the nose, under eyes and chin (or for a flawless powder blush application).

2. Sonia Kashuk - Synthetic Pointed Foundation Brush - $12.99
My favorite when applying cream foundations.  Cream foundations (when not thinned down) can be a bit tough to pick up and spread when using a regular foundation brush.  But with this one, because it's pointed, the brush itself is a bit sturdier and the bristles closer together.  Great for getting in those deep set corner of the eyes and around the nose area.

3. Crown Brush - Mineral Series: Taklon Foundation Brush M10 - $3.25
Although there isn't really anything "special" about this brush I really like it because the bristles are pressed together really tightly and I can use it for my older clients who have a bit of wrinkles.  I feel it get's really in there especially near crows feet and laugh lines.

4. Crown Brush - Luna Series: Deluxe Oval Foundation Brush BK9 - $4.99
My second favorite brush next to the Sonia Kashuk one.  I like that although its a flat head, the bristles aren't as tight and it has a bit of a feathering affect at the tip.  I love to use it when I highlight and contour with any cream products.  It doesn't give a harsh line and makes the product go on super smooth.  Also wonderful with cream or cream to powder blushes.

5. Crown Brush - Luna Series: Oval Camouflage Concealer Brush BK10 - $2.88
Yes I know, I know...we're discussing foundation brushes.  But I had to add this one because I own about 3 of these.  It has the same effect as the Foundation brush above.  Concealer goes on as smooth as a baby's bottom and leaves no streaking.

6. Beauty Blender Sponge - $19.95 - $39.95
As a makeup artist who isn't too fond of sponges (trust me, it even took me a while to give into using this product) I gotta say this little egg of happiness makes my day!  My favorite way to use it is to wet it, squeeze any water out and get into the corner of the eyes.  I also absolutely LOVE it to blend out the edges near the hairline.  There are many that look like it and claim they're better, but they're not.  The material that it's made of is patent and there is no other like it.

7. Alcone Non-Latex Sponges - $2.50 for a block pre-cut into 8 individual
These are the sponges that I started out using 7 years ago and these are the sponges I use to this day.  I might not use them often but when in need of a sponge, this is my go to.  I personally like to use them dry to take away or "erase" any mistakes.  Great for toning down too much blush or any product for that matter.

Fall Giveaway!!

I'd like to take a moment to thank everyone for keeping up with me, my work and my blog.  Your support, requests and emails is what keeps me going.  To thank all of you, I'll be doing a little give away.  The winner will win a Shu Uemura - Rouge Unlimited Creme Matte Lipstick in RD 178M (Rich Burgundy).  It's the perfect color for the holidays and/or a wonderful addition to your kit.

The Fall Giveaway ends Friday, September 30th.  Just click on the Facebook Badge to your right, "Like" my Facebook page and write on my wall "I love Shu Uemura".  The winner will be randomly selected and announced on my Facebook page.

Good Luck!!

*Note/Edit: 
This Giveaway is officially closed!  Thank you all who participated!
Congratulations Kana L. Brown for winning the Fall Giveaway!

The Skinny on Portfolios

With everything being digital these days most of us either don't have a book or hasn't updated it in a long time.  I have to say that at this point in my career I hardly show my book nor does it get requested.  Plus, I always get away with just sending people to my website.  But one thing is for sure, I always keep my book updated.  Yes, I admit that sometimes I go on a bit too long w/o putting new things in there but for the most part, if I ever have to meet with a last minute client that wants to see a physical book, I know that my portfolio isn't super backed up.

I also understand that when first getting a book, you don't really know where to start building.  It can be a stressful and daunting task.  You're not sure if your pictures are good enough or if you even have enough images to put into the book.  Heck, sometimes you don't even know what kind of book to get!  All these questions burning in your brain and you have no idea of the answers.

Hopefully the following can serve as some guidance:

THE BOOK ITSELF

• Standard industry size is 11 x 14.  Sometimes when starting out 9 x 12 is acceptable but here's how I see it...why buy a 9 x 12 if you're going to eventually upgrade to an 11 x 14?  Save yourself some money and just go with the 11 x 14.
• Books should be black.  I've seen them in different colors but personally I like dark colors.  I feel it looks more professional.
• Always go with either Leather or Waxskin.  Most of the time you can't even tell the difference...but your pocket sure will!  Leather can run you about $250.  Waxskin, $150.  Mine is waxskin.
• Pages should never be scratched or fingerprinted.  Always make sure your pages are crisp and clean.  That means no dents or bends on the pages.  Replace any pages that don't look neat ASAP.  The same goes for the page insert (which should be black).
• Get a book that you can take apart so you can add/subtract any pages from it.  It also makes it easy when putting new work into your book.  
• Your book should ALWAYS have your name imprinted / embossed on the front cover.  Keep the font readable and don't go with crazy cursive fonts.  

WHAT'S IN THE BOOK

• Most books come with a standard of 20 pages (holds 40 images).  Does this mean that you have to have 40 images in your book for it to be complete?  Absolutely NOT!  Remember it's about Quality, not quantity.  Always make sure that everything in the image is top notch.  Everything (makeup, hair, photography, model, styling and retouching) has to be in tip top shape.  If even ONE thing is off, it will ruin the image as a whole.  If you only have 10 amazing images, simply just take out the pages you're currently not using and store them in a place where you know they wont be ruined and bent out of shape.
• Some books also come with an inner pocket on the back flap.  I always suggest to get a book that comes with it.  Why?  Because it's a great place to store your resumes, comp cards, reference list and some extra pictures (in the case that 40 isn't enough).  By extra pictures I mean a few, 3 - 6 images.  Don't stuff that flap with a million pictures.  It makes the book look cluttered and unprofessional.
• Put a sticker / label with your information on it (name, profession, phone number, website and email address).  Get one done at staples / kinkos or buy a label maker and stick that sucker on the inside front flap of your book--preferably at the bottom.
• Tear Sheets!  If you have any tear sheets they should always be neat and placed right in the middle of the page.  Just because they're called tear sheets doesn't mean that you tear them out and slap them in your book.  Gently take them out of the magazine and carefully cut the edges to perfection.  You can do this with a paper cutter or a ruler and an x-acto knife.  Put a tiny piece of folded up tape behind the tear sheet (one on top and one on bottom) so it sticks to the page insert and wont move around all over the place.
  
  *Note:  Buy more than one copy of the magazine you were published in.  Some agencies are known for losing your book and if that's the only copy you had, then you're in some deep doodoo.  OR, go to a copy place and make copies of the original and put the copies (in full awesome color) in your book.

SWITCHING UP & HAVING IT READY
Your book should always be set up to meet the requirements of the client.  Every client is different so if you're going in for a skin care job, don't take any of the high fashion stuff and creative--yellow lipstick--beauty story with you.  Take it out and keep only the clean work in your book.

PUT IT IN A BAG
And not just any bag.  Buy a portfolio carry bag.  Don't carry your portfolio in a plastic bag, your backpack or purse.  Not only does it look good in there but it keeps your portfolio from getting dirty and dusty.  The carry bag should have your information on it (name and address) so in the case that you send your book to an agent, they know who to send it back to.

FINAL COSTS
So how much is this going to cost me?  Well, depending on the book type, how many letters in your name, the printing of pictures, the carry bag...I'd say anywhere from $250 - $350.  But it's worth every penny.  Your portfolio is your resume and without a resume, you can't book jobs.

Good Luck!

Colored Mascaras and Liners...Oh My!

Click Image to Enlarge

Who said Mascara and eyeliner had to be only Black and Brown?  I think I speak for a lot of people when I say that black and brown get really boring, REALLY fast!  With so many companies (both cheap and expensive) out there making colored mascara and eyeliners, you have no excuse to not get these and fill the world, and your eyes, with a bit of color.  Here are a few of my favorites.

1. Benefit - Bad Gal Mascara in Blue $13 - $19

The over sized brush does all the work and makes your lashes super long.  The blue color makes your eyes whiter and brighter.  

2. Sue Devitt - Luxura Lash Mascara in Black Lavender $22

This awesome purple mascara not only makes your lashes look sexy but it has all these amazing things like Hydrolyzed Keratin for a longer, fuller, shiny look and soothing Orchid Extract for ultimate hydration.

3. YSL - Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils $30

Although a hefty price to pay for a mascara, I have to say that this mascara is like the Rolls Royce of colored mascaras.  Not only are the colors rich but it comes in EIGHT different shades (5 of them being actual colors).  But what makes this particular mascara worth it is the Triple-Film Complex.  1 film coating for intensity, 1 conditioning film for curve and 1 fixing film for long lasting effect.

4. Make Up For Ever - Smoky Lash $22

What can I say?  It's Make Up For Ever!!  You can't ever go wrong with them.  The pigmentation in their products never disappoints.  This mascara lengthens, volumizes and curls the lashes all in one swipe!  Oh and did I mention that it comes in GREEN!? 

5. Prestige Cosmetics - Liquid Eyeliner $8 - $10

I have to say that I'm not a huge fan of most drugstore cosmetics but this particular brand I was in awe with.  Although not waterproof, I have to say that it gets the job done, the little fiber tipped applicator provides great control and it comes in a wonderful array of colors.

6. Make Up For Ever - Aqua Eyes $18

This ultra pigmented eyeliner is waterproof on both the lash line and the water line, wont run or fade.  No more runny eye syndrome and comes in an incredible 25 shades (19 colors).  Now the only question is...which color to choose?

*Note: The products listed above are just favorites of mine.  There are other lines such and L'Oreal, Buxom, Physicians Formula, etc. that carry colored mascaras and liners and are a bit more pocket friendly.