Monday, January 30, 2012

Makeup for Mature Skin

Photo Copyright of Blue Hair Salon

Mature skin is very different from young skin.  The skin is less elastic & looser, shows signs of lines & wrinkles and needs to be hydrated.  It also tends lose color and becomes very thin.  The makeup should always looks radiant and not dry.  It should bring out the natural glow of the skin, not hide it.  Caking on foundation doesn't look good on anyone especially mature skin.  In fact, makeup for mature skin should always be less heavy.  The more makeup, the more it tends to settle into fine lines and wrinkles making your canvas look older.

So, what type of products should you use?

I've hardly encountered a woman over 45 who already didn't have her own personal skin care products that she swears by and has used for years.  Most of the time I end up using what they use in the attempt to make my client feel at ease and comfortable.  But I have met some women who've spent 50 years of their life with nothing but chapstick in their purse and absolutely no clue as to which products they should try.  In those cases I carry:

Both of these products pack a punch so a little goes a long way.  We don't want overly hydrated skin either or the makeup will move around and not stay on.
     * Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentrè (24-Hour Miracle Cream)
     * Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Creme


I only tone mature skin if absolutely necessary.  If I do, I always use a hydrating toner, never an alcohol based.  Remember, we're trying to hydrate the skin, not dry it out.
     * Kiehl's Ultra Facial Toner

I am a firm believer that foundation should be used to even out skin tone instead of being caked on to cover imperfections.  This is why we have concealer.  Depending on the thickness/thinness of the foundation, it should be used sparingly.  I love to apply it with the beauty blender.
     * MUFE Liquid Lift Foundation
     * Laura Mercier Silk Creme Foundation
     * FACEatelier Ultra Foundation
     * Elizabeth Arden Intervene (Never used it myself but know many senior artists that LOVE this foundation for mature skin)

I hardly use correctors but when I do it's either to cover tattoo's, bruises, broken capillaries or very dark under eye circles.  Green to cover reds and orange to cover browns and blues.  The concealer/corrector you use is really up to you.  I don't carry any special ones for mature skin.  I just use what I feel is best depending on how much coverage is needed.

I stay away from anything too shimmery or frosty and lean towards pearlescent and matte.  No one wants to see a mature woman with shimmery eyeshadows.

I lean towards colors such as burgundy, amethyst, coral and dusty rose.  No baby pink lips please.

Eye Creams
I'm not a huge eye cream user.  If under eyes are a bit dry I just mix some of my moisturizer into the concealer.  If the client has their own eye cream that they like to use, I just use that.

I generally don't powder mature skin and if I do, I do it on the T-Zone only using a translucent powder.  Which brings me to cheek color.  I don't use powder blushes either.  Cream or gel blushes are key and should not have a powdery finish.  The only powder I've used that I feel works best for mature skin is the Laura Mercier Invisible Loose Setting Powder.  I've even dusted very, very little to the under eye area.

Monday, January 23, 2012

The Transformative Power of Makeup and Fashion

The Transformative Power of Makeup and Fashion
By: Jackie Clark

Everyone wants to look their best, and putting on makeup or wearing nice clothes can really help. Even a spot of lip gloss if that is all you have available can go very far in helping you feel better about your appearance.

This is even truer when it comes to people battling potentially fatal health problems. Imagine being diagnosed with something like melanoma, a dangerous form of skin cancer that causes skin cells to multiply rapidly and form malignant tumors.

What if you were diagnosed with mesothelioma cancer instead? This cancer often comes as shock because it is often caused by asbestos exposure, something most people aren't aware of being exposed to. The combination of a life-threatening illness and the surprise of how you may have contracted it combine to really deflate spirits.

Add to all that emotional turmoil the fact that mesothelioma treatment and melanoma treatment can be very harsh on the body, and you see why patients need uplifting.

This is why makeup and fashion are so important after a diagnosis. No matter what your prognosis is, you can instantly feel a little better with the right makeup and clothes.

Studies have shown that when a person is satisfied mentally, their physical outlook can improve. The power of positive thinking is very strong. When facing chemotherapy and other harsh treatments, it is important to keep the spirits up to help with the physical healing as well.

Even if you lose your hair, that doesn't mean makeup won't help you look your best. In fact, think of all that extra skin on your head as an opportunity. Shimmer lotions and bronzers can be used. Or wear a scarf 1960s style for a retro glam look that screams "sexy" instead of "cancer patient."

Many makeup counters offer free facials and makeup consultations. Take advantage of these. Not only will the makeup last all day, but also you can get beauty tips along with free samples.

For inexpensive but high-fashion clothes, try consignment boutiques or secondhand stores. Spend an afternoon trying on clothes and finding what really fits and looks good. Cancer treatments can change your body, so look at it as an opportunity for a new wardrobe. Better yet, go get your makeup done first then try clothes on to see what a complete getup will look like.

A cancer diagnosis doesn't have to mean the end of beauty in your life. It just means a different type of beauty, and makeup and fashion are a big part of that.

[Jackie is open to all questions or comments so please feel free to post below]
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Wednesday, January 18, 2012

How to: Tattoo Cover

As a way to show my bridal clients that I can cover tattoo's, I went ahead and covered my own tattoo on my wrist.  After posting the pictures, I got a bunch of requests to post a step by step of what I did.  There aren't many steps to achieve this but I will explain in full detail what I did along with pictures.

1. Clean it up

  • Wash area with soap and water
  • Use toner or alcohol to make sure there isn't any left over soap or oils from the skin

2. Apply Neutralizer

3. Airbrush
Since the compressor doesn't have numbers, I took photos of how I had the psi knob set up.  Please note that every compressor is different.  Some have knobs while others have a slide bar.  Some have numbers while others don't.  It's up to you to practice, use your judgement and know how to set the psi on the compressor you own.
  • Apply several coats of Airbrush Foundation.  I used the Temptu S-One Airbrush System (compressor and gun) along with the Temptu S/B Foundations.
  • I used 2 over all coats holding the air gun about 3 - 6 inches away, spraying in a circular motion (psi #1).  Remember different tattoos require different amounts of coats and coverage depending on the size and color.
  • To really cover the letters and heart, I got in closer at about .5 - 1 inch away.  I also lowered the psi - still spraying in a small circular motion (psi #2)
  • Let dry between coats for maximum coverage about 3 - 5 minutes.
  • As you can tell, we're already half way there.

4. Finish Up

  • Wait until completely dry and apply translucent powder to set the foundation.  I used Laura Mercier Invisible Loose Setting Powder but any translucent powder of your choice would work just fine.
  • If the skin looks a bit lighter compared to the rest of the area (this can happen if you apply too many coats), just brush on some bronzing powder on the covered area feathering out to the rest of the area not covered so it blends flawlessly.

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Beauty Breakdown

Many have asked what type of products I use to create that clean, glowing and supple skin.  Well, for the first time I'm going to list exactly what I used in the photo above.  As always, any questions please put them in the comment section below.

Skin Care
Witch Hazel as toner, Embryolisse Lait-Crème Concentrè (24 Hour Miracle Cream), which I let set for 5 - 7 minutes before applying any makeup.

After moisturizing I apply Make Up For Ever HD in #118

Make Up For Ever 5 Camouflage Cream Palette #1, dusted with Laura Mercier Secret Brightening Powder

Camera Ready Oil Control Pressed Powder on the T-Zone area only

NARS Bronzing Powder in Laguna on the hollows of the cheeks

PowderPuff Squad Blush Palette (product discontinued)

Eye Shadow
Nixie Eyeshadow in Island (product and line discontinued)

Eye Liner
MAC Cosmetics Eye Khol in Smolder used in the upper water line, 3 Custom Color Eye Pencil in Light Clarifier used on bottom water line

CoverGirl LashBlast Volume Blasting Mascara in Very Black on both upper and lower lashes

Tarte emphasEYES Amazonian Clay Waterproof Brow Pencil in Taupe

Laura Mercier Lip Glace in Sparkling

Highlight & Contour
MAC Cosmetics Bronzing Powder in Matte Bronze on temples, left & right side of nose and jaw area, NARS The Multiple in Copacabana on bridge of nose and lip cupids bow

Body Makeup: St.Tropez Gold Skin Illuminator on collar bone, shoulders and arms, Bliss Blood Orange + White Pepper Hand Cream

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Male Grooming

Let's talk men's grooming. Many of you have requested that I do a blog post regarding makeup and hair for men, what it entails and products I use.  I love doing makeup (and hair) for men. Why do you ask? Because they're literally done in 15 - 20 minutes, don't require much and my kit is the lightest it can be.

Photo: Reka Nyari
MU&H: Me

Makeup for men can sometimes be a tad tricky.  Because they're not women and you're not adding any extra fluff with lipstick or eyeshadows, if done incorrectly, your subject can look very flat or over done. Remember men should still look like men. It also depends on the type of client that you're working for. Some clients want tons of makeup, some want their men to look rugged, some want them to look boyish etc. Every client is different so you should be able to adjust to their liking.

I often work with TV/Film talent, corporate interviews and catalog. All three clients are different and some men require more makeup than others given their age, skin type, skin color, how well they take care of their skin and the weather.

For HD TV/Film & Corporate Interviews
Depending on the project, most of the time TV talent are very matte and somewhat heavily made up due to HD. What might look like a lot to the naked eye, looks fantastic on camera.  The important things for this type of medium is to hide all reds, make sure there is no flaky skin and keep them matte at all times.  I use different products depending on the talents skin.
  • Skin Care: Tone, Moisturize & Prime
  • Foundations I Use: MUFE HD, RCMA, Graftobian
  • Concealers I Use: MUFE Camo palette, MUFE Full Coverage
  • Bronzers I Use: MAC Ultra Matte Bronzer, Black Opal Oil Absorbing Pressed Powder
  • Powders: Laura Mercier Universal Powder, CRC Oil Control Pressed Powder, Black Opal Oil Absorbing Pressed Powder
  • Lips: MAC Lip Conditioner, Carmex
Occasionally I get the shaved bald head and we all know how that shines like a disco ball on camera if left undone.  I like to use the FACEatelier Ultra Matte Spray.  Sometimes I'll follow up with a pressed powder depending on the extent of the shine and/or placement of lighting.

For Catalog
I work a lot with Lacoste for their online catalog and this particular client likes their men to be a bit more boyish but preppy (or as I like to call it, the Nate Archibald look).  Nice even skin, no reds but still with life and color.  Again, products I use depend on the models skin.

Lacoste Online Catalog
MU&H: Me

  • Skin Care: Tone & Moisturize
  • Foundations I Use: MUFE HD, FACEatelier Ultra Foundation
  • Concealers I Use: MUFE Camo palette
  • Bronzers I Use: MAC Ultra Matte Bronzer
  • Blushes: (yup sometimes I use blushes) Custom Blush Palette (various brands in a Z Palette)
  • Powders: Laura Mercier Universal Powder, CRC Oil Control Pressed Powder
  • Lips: MAC Lip Conditioner, Carmex

As far as hair, most guys already come with hair done so I just spruce up whatever they have going on.  Making sure there's no fly aways or hair isn't in the eyes.  They already come shaved too but I always carry a razor in my bag in the case that they missed a hair or two.  Most of the time they'll take care of it themselves (some even carry with their own shaving tools) but I'm also quite comfortable doing it myself if we're pressed for time.  Some of the hair products I use are:

  • Jonathan Silky Dirt
  • Garnier Fructis Mousse
  • Redken Polish Up Pomade
  • L'Oreal Elnett Satin Hair Spray
That's about it!  See, 15 - 20 minutes and a very light kit.  If any of you have any questions at all, application techniques, tools I use etc. please feel free to comment below or send me an email (which ever you prefer) and I'd be more than happy to answer any questions you might have.

Friday, January 6, 2012

Men's Skincare

As women, we tend to take care of our skin more than men.  I find that most men just don't have the time or feel that taking care of their skin is "girly".  Some men do take the time to cleanse and moisturize and that's as far as it goes.  I'm speaking to all men out there, take the time!  Your skin should be taken care of daily meaning skin should be cleansed and moisturized.  A moisturizer with SPF is key.  You're prone to sun damage and wrinkles just like everyone else.  If you shave (whether it's daily or every other couple of days) you should be applying an aftershave balm.

With so many products out there, I'm sure it's difficult to pick one or even know what's best for you.  I'm not going to sit here and tell you what you should buy for yourself.  I'm only going to point you in the right direction, give you a starting point.  In the end you should use what works best for you!

Note: As I am not a man, I can only point you in the direction of things my husband has tried or my friends husbands use. Take some time and search for products that work for you.  Trust me, your skin and your significant other will thank you.

Here are a couple of products to get you started

1. The Art of Shaving
Truly amazing stuff!  My husband uses the Ingrown Hair Night Cream when he knows he's going to shave in the morning.  He has sensitive skin and suffers from razor bumps anytime he shaves.  Once he started using this cream, no more razor bumps.  The Art of Shaving has tons of goodies for your face.  A lot of the male models I work with swear by their products.

2. Clinique - Skin Supplies for Men
This line has everything from Cleansers to Eye Creams.  I love their women products so if their men products are just as great, then you'll love it too! 

3. Anthony - Logistics for Men
Another line that pretty much carries everything.  My husband swears by this line.  The second it looks like he's running out of one of his products, he runs out and gets a refill.  Their cleanser is great (and smells nice too), along with their moisturizer and body wash.  He recently purchased the eye cream but hasn't tried it yet.  I'll update with any reviews here.

4. Dove - Men + Care
Your body is just as important as your face therefore it needs love too.  My hubby loves this product and uses the Body Wash.  It leaves the skin smooth and smelling fresh but in a manly sort of way.  

5. Nivea - For Men
Nivea products area always great for those who have sensitive skin.  It's found pretty much everywhere and it's pocket friendly.  A friends husband loves and sticks by this product.  It's what works for him and I think that's great!  They have 5 different shave gels and 5 different after shave balms to choose from.

Must Haves
  • Cleanser
  • Moisturizer with SPF
  • Eye Cream
  • Pre-Shave Cream / Oil
  • After Shave Balm
  • Night Cream
  • Exfoliator (do 2 - 3 times a week)
  • Body Scrub
Other companies that carry skin care for men: