Mascara's, Wands and Keeping Sanitized

In a recent Twitter post, I posted that I didn't understand the concept of buying super expensive mascara.  What's the point?  After 3 months it's got to go into the garbage anyways.  That's right...In case you weren't aware, whether you used it once or 50 times, 3 months from that date it needs to be disposed of.  Why?  From the time that you open your mascara, it's already started to harbor germs.  And as we all know, germs love to live in warm humid places (another reason why sharing mascara is gross).  Not disposing of your mascara after 3 months can bring on some serious damage.  In my years in the business. I've seen everything from pink eye to corneal infections caused by old mascara and sharing of mascara.  So, buying $50 mascara's don't really make any sense to me.  I much rather get a pair of shoes for $50 and have them last a year (or more - given how I take care of my shoes, they'll last a life time ha!)

But Yisell, I usually keep my mascara's more than 3 months and I'm fine.  While that might be so, how many times are you willing to play Russian Roulette with your mascara?  Till you get an infection and learn the hard way?

IF YOU'RE A CONSUMER
I've gone ahead and listed my top 5 favorite mascara's which I use both in my kit and for personal use that wont run your wallet into the ground.  Now we all know that when getting a mascara it's all about the wand.  The formula sort of matters too but not as much.  The wand is what gives you the volume and the length that we all women crave.  And in this case, size does matter.

1. Covergirl Lash Blast Length - I'm in love with the skinny wand that comes with this mascara.  It's especially wonderful if you have small lashes.  If the wand is too big, it's a bit harder to get into the base of the lash and create length.

2. Covergirl Lash Blast - Huge wand!  But that's great if you already have long lashes but lack volume (such as myself).  I don't recommend this to anyone with short lashes.

3. Maybelline Define-A-Lash - I really like the rubber wand that comes with this.  It contours and bends to your lashes so it really gets in there.  Also, because the "bristles" are small, the wand doesn't pick up a ton of product so less clumping which is a total plus.

4. Maybelline Great Lash - Let me start by saying that this is a classic.  I actually used this in my kit for a very long time before exploring other options.  It's still a staple in many makeup artists kits and it's the most basic mascara I've ever encountered.  There isn't really anything special about the wand.  In fact, I find the wand to be too small and not enough fluff to give volume.  The packaging though, always give me a sense of nostalgia from when I was a kid.  My sister used to have this mascara back in the 80's (we're 11 years apart so when she was 18, I was 7) and I'd just sit there in awe and watch her do her makeup ever so carefully.  Perhaps this is why I kept it in my kit for so long.

5. L'Oreal Voluminous Original - I've left this one for last because I have to honest.  It's my favorite personally and professionally.  I love the wand, not too big, not too small.  Great for length and really amazing for volume.  I can get into the inner corner of my eye (we all know how hard it is to get in there without poking your eye out) and I can still get the volume I need on the outer corners of the eye while still separating the lashes and it leaving no clumps!  WIN!

All in all, get what works best for you.  Sometimes you won't know unless you do trial and error but at least you didn't spend $50 on a mascara that probably wont work for you.

IF YOU'RE A MAKEUP ARTIST
As a makeup artist, when mascara goes in my kit, it doesn't matter what kind of wand it has because I never use the wand anyways.  A professional and clean makeup artist should always have an arsenal of disposable mascara wands in their kit.  Using the same wand on multiple people and double dipping is an absolute NO NO!  Now, you can use the wand only and ONLY if you're keeping and washing/disinfecting the wands between use.  I used to do this for years because I was tired of constantly purchasing mascara wands.  But, that got old and I realized that I was just creating more things to clean (and I don't have to explain the joys of brush washing).  I eventually went back to using disposables and saved myself the task of cleaning one more thing.  I guess this is why the Maybelline Great Lash is such a staple, because the wand doesn't matter.  It's functional and gets the job done.  Though, I do have to say that the L'Oreal still takes the cake and I carry that in my kit instead.  In the end, use what you feel most comfortable with.  Every artist is different and has different work methods.  If you're the kind that likes to carry around more than one type of disposable mascara wand (or would like to explore and try different wands), Qosmedix has quite the selection.

Building Your Kit

Building your kit when you're starting out could be quite time consuming, hard work and a lot of money coming out of your pocket.  But in this business, in order to be a professional and have a kit that is functional (and clean) for jobs and not be considered amateur, you need to put in the time, work and money.  But you don't have to completely break the bank.  I can help you build your kit the right way without over spending and getting things that you just don't need (coughglittershimmerfeatherscough).  You can add the rest of the fluff later after you've gotten the basics and what you need.

NOTE:  Please be aware that anything listed below are suggestions that I like and that I carry in my kit.

Skin Care
Skin care is something that should always be in your kit.  You cannot skimp on this.  If you don't prep the skin properly then anything else you do beyond this will be pointless.  Personally I like to carry no more than 2 Moisturizers in my kit.  Let's be honest here, I'm a makeup artist, not a dermatologist.  I just can't carry a skincare product for every single type of skin out there.  So I carry what I feel I use and need the most.  Also, all of the products I carry are for sensitive skin because you just never know.

• Aveeno Ultra-Calming Moisturizer - I like this because not only does it reduce redness but it calms irritated skin (especially in the winter). 
• Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre (24 Hour Miracle Cream) - This is by far the best moisturizer I have ever encountered.  It just leaves the skin super soft.  And it serves as a makeup remover!
• Keihls Ultra Facial Toner - It's milky, doesn't contain alcohol and it doesn't strip the skin of any oils leaving the skin supple, not dry.
• Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream - I call this the "everything cream" because it really does serve as everything.  I've used it as moisturizer on super dry skin, lip balm, hand cream and even "mascara" when I don't want to use actual mascara for kids and men (to give some definition).

Note: For oily skin I either skip the moisturizer or use very little.

Foundations
This is where it gets tricky because there are just so many types of foundations out there that are absolutely beautiful and I wish I can own them all but really there is no point.  Find the foundation that you love the most for your kit.  I personally like to have one that gives a dewy, youthful glow (mostly used for print & bridal), and one that's a bit more matte without leaving the skin looking like it's screaming for moisture (mostly used to TV/Film HD).  I also generally like liquids that have good cover.  If I need to make them sheer I can always use a foundation thinner or moisturizer to do so.  No need to buy sheer foundations when you can thin them out yourself.  I carry:

• FACEatelier Ultra Pro - This is my 'go to' foundation and the one that I use the most.  I'd say in about 95% of my work I've used this foundation.  It's like liquid gold.  Covers, leaves the skin looking flawless, dewy and youthful and a little goes a long way.  Oh and they're travel friendly!  Always a plus when you're traveling for work.
• Make Up For Ever (MUFE) HD - I love this foundation for TV/Film work.  It goes on like second skin and just so light.  It's the must have for HD and anyone who has super oily skin.  It's matte without sucking the life from your skin.  Sometimes there even isn't a need to powder.  Any time I get to skip a step, is a happy day for me.
• *Optional* - Graftobian Hi-Def Glamour Creme - I love, love, love this foundation the best for women of color.  Not to say that the other ones on this list aren't great for darker women, I just personally prefer to work with creams when it comes to women of color.  A little goes a long way so be careful, it's smooth and buttery amazingness can turn against you. 

Eye Shadows
Another tricky one.  There's so many brands out there and some artists prefer one brand over the other and that's completely fine.  Again, get what you feel most comfortable working with.  But one thing that without question should always be in your kit...matte neutrals.  I can't tell you how having matte neutrals in your kit is super important.  Real paying jobs (you know, the type that you can live off and pay your bills) will 90% of the time want something clean and beautiful.  That's not to say you can't own any shimmers.  There are some beautiful shimmers out there that I use for my catalog work all the time - they're on the list, don't worry.

• Viseart 12 Color Eyeshadow Palette - Where do I even begin to describe this palette.  Every pro that I know has this palette and just absolutely swears by it.  In fact, it's so beautiful that most of the time it's sold out everywhere!  It's the first matte eyeshadow that I've encountered that aren't chalky and blend beautiful (second is the FACEatelier individual matte neutrals)
• Urban Decay Naked Palette - Great palette with a beautiful range of neutrals and it's got both mattes and shimmers.  They blend beautifully and I find that I use them a lot for bridal and/or special occasions for that extra glam factor.
• Yaby Best of Both Worlds Palette - What can I say about Yaby except you can't EVER go wrong with their eyeshadows.  This palette contains both neutrals (in matte and shimmers) along with some color shadows.  Some colors that you'll use a lot, some that you wont use as much.  But at least they're in the palette for those "just in case" moments when a client suddenly wants a purple smokey eye.

Lipsticks
You should always have a good assortment of lipsticks in your kit.  Whether you want to buy them in a palette or buy them individually and make your own lipstick palette, is completely up to you.  I like to buy them individually only because most palettes contain colors that you won't other wise find as an individual.  Last thing I want to do is re-buy a whole entire palette for just one color because I love it, now I've become attached, use it often, run out of the color and then I can't buy just that one color because its palette exclusive.  Defeats the point of saving money doesn't it?  Plus, that's a total bummer.  All of  my lipsticks that I use the most are from different companies depotted into a Z Palette.  I always suggest getting an assortment of various pinks, reds, burgandys, plums, corals and nude/neutrals.  Brands that I love and use often are FACEatelier, YSL, Shiseido, Yaby, Revlon & Maybelline.

Blush/Contour
Again, get this in palette form.  It's just easier and efficient and you get to cover all ranges of skin tones.

• La Femme 12 Color Blush Palette - The pigmentation of this palette is insane!  You'll have this for a very long time as you'll use such little product to get the effect you need.
• NARS Bronzing Powder "Laguna" - I know I've said that palettes are key but when it comes to contouring, I use one color on pretty much everyone from fair to medium/olive toned.  This color is just so gorgeous and I'm completely in love (and attached) to it.  It's got these tiny gold flecks that, when applied, read as a healthy glow and not as a shimmer.
• MAC Bronzing Powder "Matte Bronze" - Another individual (and its MAC! - notice how I don't use anything MAC except for this powder).  I carry this bronzer for one purpose and one purpose only.  Men!  That's right, I use it only when I'm doing male grooming.  Why?  Because men need matte.  I can't exactly go around putting Laguna on their face now can I?
• Yaby Powder Foundation Palette "The Darks" - So you may have the occasional really dark model/client and "Laguna" just isn't going to cut it.  That's where this palette steps in.  Don't let the "powder foundation" name throw you off.  You can absolutely use this as bronzer.

The Little Things

• Mascara - Get a regular drugstore brand.  Whichever you like the most.  Don't go expensive on mascara because no matter how many times you've used it, once you've opened it, it officially has a life span of 3 months before you need to dispose of it and get another one.  Mascara's harbor germs so always remember, 3 months and it's got to go.  
• Pencil Liners - Get one in Black and Brown.  I like the Urban Decay 24/7.
• Liquid/Gel Liners - Same as above, 1 black, 1 brown.  I like the Tarte Amazonian Clay Waterproof Liners (in the pot).  I've recommended this liner to friends and some stated to have gone swimming and this liner just doesn't budge.
• Tweezers - I happen to love the Tweezerman brand.  I've had one of their tweezers for years now (I carry 2).  The other I keep replacing because either I keep losing it or others love it as much as I do and it happens to "walk" off set.
• Eyelash Curler - I carry 2 as well.  I have the Shu Uemura one and the Yaby Heated Lash Curler.  Both the best of their kind.  I've had the Shu one for almost 6 years now (maybe more) and the Yaby heated for 2 years.  Why a heated lash curler?  Because sometimes you'll get those straight eyelashes that are just impossible to curl and I promise you this heater curler will save your day and make your lash curling way easier.

Disposables

• Sponges
• Mascara Wands
• Q-Tips
• Cotton Balls/Pads
• Powder Puffs
• Makeup Wipes
• Tissues

Brushes/Tools
The brushes you use are completely and totally up to you.  There are so many different brands.  Every artist that I've encountered likes different types of brushes for all sorts of reasons.  Their softness, the handle, the colors, the multi-functionality.  In the end you should use what feels right in your hands.  I only want to state one little thing.  Your brushes are how you "paint".  These are your tools, an extension of you.  Go too cheap and you'll end up replacing that brush in no time.  But that doesn't mean that you have to go crazy expensive either (unless you want).  I like functional brushes but they also have to do their job and be pretty.  My most used brushes in my roll are by Bdellium Tools and Royal & Langnickel Silk Collection.  Some are even Sephora brand.  Just know that whatever you choose as your tools, should work for you!

Highlighting and Contouring, the Basics

Highlighting & Contouring...that lovely thing we all do to give dimension to the face.  It's also that lovely thing that people always have a hard time with.  Whether it's applying it on yourself or applying it on others, highlighting & contouring can be tricky and if done wrong, can look like a disaster.  And trust me, I've seen some pretty bad H&C out there.

Now, I'm not going to teach you, give you a tutorial or show you step by step on how to do it.  Why?  Because highlighting and contouring isn't something that can be taught.  It is something that needs to be learned with practice and patience.  You know how I  always say to practice, practice, practice?  Well, this is one of those times.  But, there are a few things that I did (and still do to this day) that helped me learn how to highlight and contour correctly.  Remember, every face is different.  You will never highlight and contour the same for everyone.

All Makeup by Me

Whether you're doing a soft or hard application, the way that I found worked best for me (and that has worked well for others that have assisted me) is to "get to know the face".  What I mean by that is just that!  While your model / client is sitting in that chair waiting for you to make magic, take that time to look at their face.  Take a mental note of where all the high points of the face are (highlight), take note of where the hollows are (contour).  Now that you have a visual it's time to feel the skin.  That's right, take those lovely little feelers and touch their face.  I love to do so while I'm moisturizing.  I have and will always moisturize with my fingers.  This lets me feel the facial muscles & bones and gives me a better sense of the kind of skin  texture that I will be working with.

A great way to practice is on yourself (or a friend).  Grab a friend and massage his / her face with a little moisturizer.  Close your eyes and mentally envision the bones and muscles you're feeling all the while mentally taking notes.  Feel the cheekbones, feel the bridge of the nose, feel the temple and forehead  Now that you have an idea of what's under the skin, you can now highlight and contour to your liking.

Of course there is way more to this method such as the kind of lighting your working with, the kind of look you're going for, product you're using, blending properly etc., but once you have the basics down and "get to know the face", then you can move forward.  You can't expect to run before walking.  Without learning the basics, how do you expect to fully grasp the rest that's involved?

Now go forth, practice like crazy and be awesome!

Color Story

Everyone knows my work as super clean, glowy and natural.  With constant work I barely get any chance of testing anymore so when the opportunity to create and add color arose, I jumped with glee!  Though, shot in early December and you've probably seen it on my Facebook Page and I even did a beauty breakdown on one of the images, here's the color story I worked on.  Enjoy!

Photography: Kat Bret
Model: Ira @ Muse

Hair / Ribbons: Alexander Tome

Makeup / Nails: Yisell Santos (me)

CKONE Color

CKONE color was generous enough to send me some of their key products to try out.  Usually my blog isn't about rating makeup and product but I felt the need to blog about them because I was so impressed with their stuff.  The pigmentation on the lipsticks are phenomenally pigmented, the shadows and blushes are smooth as well as their powder and their glosses have a nice scent and aren't sticky.  Although I couldn't swatch every single thing (I give kudos to those who keep up with product blogs - seriously hard work) I did swatch my favs. Here's a few items that they sent.

POWDER FOUNDATION
Although they're smooth and have nice pigment, I just would never use them as foundation.  But they're great as setting powders.

MOUSSE CONCEALERS
If you have very little to no redness or dark circles then these are for you.  The coverage is pretty light.

EYESHADOW QUADS
So smooth, gorgeous color and the Quad to the left is ideal for weddings.  Though, the matte colors can be used for catalog as well.

POWDER & CREAM BLUSH DUO
Just amazing.  The coral duo (right) is my absolute favorite.  Quickly becoming a catalog staple in my kit.

LIPGLOSSES
Love, love, love these.  They even have a nice soft scent to them.  

LIPSTICKS
I think the swatches speak for themselves.  Just gorgeous and so creamy!

 All in all, if you're looking to invest in some CKONE Color products, do it!  I can't wait to use the brighter lipsticks.  The lighter "normal" ones (first 4) are amazing for catalog and commercial work.

Breaking Into the Industry

Let me start by saying that this blog post is going to be as real as possible.  Many that know me know that I don't sugar coat.  I'm not mean about it but I'm not going to make it pretty and wrap it up in a bow for you.  The last thing I want to do is send you on your way thinking that you're going to start makeup today and become an all star tomorrow.  I don't do it to discourage you, in fact I do it to encourage you.  Because when you finally make it to where you want to be, you know that you put all your blood, sweat and tears into it.  That the prize you wanted at the end of the road was every single bit worth it.  And that feeling is glorious! With that said...

Breaking into the industry, no matter where you live, is never easy.  It takes hard work, dedication and patience to become a makeup artist.  Here's a list of things you'll need:

1. Images of your work
Without images of your work you basically don't exist.  Start working on a portfolio ASAP!  People can't hire you if they don't know what they're "buying".  In order to get images of your work you need to test.  Test, test, test!  Get a team together consisting of a hair stylist, photographer & wardrobe (if it's fashion/editorial).  Wardrobe usually isn't needed if you're just shooting beauty (bare shoulders and up).  Know, that you can do the best makeup in the world but if one element is off (hair looks bad, nails not manicured etc), your whole image will fail.  And no, you cannot take images with your smart phone.  That is just unacceptable!  When I had my 9 - 5 job I would test after work and I would test on weekends.  I basically had no life for a while.  But this is what I wanted to do so I worked hard to build my portfolio.  I'd see my boyfriend (now husband) when I could.  I'd test in the morning on weekends then hang out with my friends once my shoot was done at night.  If you're not working, you should be testing.  If you're at home on a Saturday morning watching TV, you're not being productive.

Practice, practice, practice!  I cannot stress enough how important this is!  Just when you think that you can’t practice anymore, practice again!!  Practice on friends, family – aunts, uncles, husband, boyfriend, mom, dad…whatever it takes.  You can’t ever get enough practice and no matter what stage of makeup artistry you’re in, you will always learn something new.

 Leave the feathers and rhinestones home!  Nothing more screams amateur than a portfolio filled with blue eyeshadow, feathers, rhinestones, glitter and crazy colored lashes.  We all need to have those creative days, I know, every now and then I like to smudge a little yellow paint across someone’s face.  But I do it because my book is filled with a ton of clean work.  A client doesn’t want to see how good of a orange smokey eye you can do or how well you apply crazy eyelashes.  A client wants to see how well you make the skin look.  Master the clean look on all skin colors and ethnicities first and then reach for the crazy stuff.  Also, clean work is what pays the big bucks.  Pretty much anything commercial such as Dove, Neutrogena, Colgate, Olay, etc. are the kind of clients you want to have if you want to pay your bills.

2. Website
Once you have a couple of images that you're happy with in your possession, acquire a website and start building your online portfolio.  Even if you just have 6 images, it's a start and something is always better than nothing.  Look at other makeup artist portfolios so you have an idea of layout and what kind of content should be up there.

3. Physical Portfolio
I did a whole entire post on Portfolios a while back.  Check it out here.

4. Business Cards
Business cards are such a great networking tool.  Give them out to clients and if you're into doing weddings, most bridal shops allow you to leave some cards behind so that customers can take them.  Trust me it works!  When I was doing weddings, I'd leave my cards at bridal dress shops, cake shops, flower shops...you name it, my card was there.  I'd get brides or even friends/family of the bride calling and booking me for their wedding.  When I asked them where they found me..."I saw your card at so-and-so bridal shop".  For a "how to" with business cards, check out the full blog post I did here.

5. Assist
I find that there really isn't any better way to learn, than by assisting and watching others.  I know what I know because I assisted a particular makeup artist for 4 years and another for 2 years.  Those artists took me under their wing and made me the artist I am today.  I started out as the runner girl.  I got water, coffee, food, whatever they needed!  Then I was upgraded to brush washer.  I washed brushes endlessly.  I never really touched a face for almost a year!  No pay either!  None whatsoever.  I wasn't there for the pay.  I was there for the experience, to learn, to watch, to see what it was like on a real set with real professionals.  Eventually I was allowed to prep the face which eventually led to touching up on set which led to doing just foundation which led to doing a whole face which ended up with splitting the work!  If there were 8 models, the key did 4 and I did 4.  Eventually I did get pay but it started out small.  Some days I'd get $50, some day's I'd get $350.  I eventually went on my own.  Sometimes I still assist these artist because I appreciate everything that they did for me.  What they taught me and what I learned was something special and something that I will never forget.  For more info on assisting please check out this blog entry.

6. Patience
Be patient!  Being in this business requires a lot of patience.  It will not happen overnight.  Again, I don’t say this to be negative; I say this to be truthful.  The jobs you want will come.  Might not be in 2 years or 5 years or even 7 years.  I’ve known artist that didn't really start seeing constant work come their way until their 7^th – 10^th year.  Very few have been fortunate in their 5^th.  There will be days where you don’t even want to look at your kit and you want to quit.  We’ve all had it, heck even I’ve had it!  But, if this is truly what you want to do, NEVER give up.

Traveling With Your Kit

Having local jobs and having jobs where you have to take an airplane are two different things.  Not different in the sense of work but different in the sense of traveling with your kit.  Many of you already know that living and being a city girl, I already heavily condense my kit to better my public transportation.  Taking your kit in a crowded train is no joke.  The less I carry, the better.  To see how I condense my makeup kit, please check out my past post: What's In My (condensed) Kit?

If you are not checking in your kit (highly recommended):
Packing your kit for flight can be a tad tricky.  According to TSA Regulations: "you are permitted to carry on containers of liquids, gels or aerosols of 3 ounces or less in a 1 Quart clear bag."  This means you can stuff that bag till it can't fit anymore so long as all the products in there aren't over 3oz.  You cannot have more than one 1qt bag so don't think that you can have multiple 1qt bags filled to the max.

What does this mean for you?  This means that unless your containers are already 3oz or less, you will absolutely have to condense your liquid foundations, brush cleaner, moisturizer etc.

If you use FACEatelier and are like me and buy them in the smaller pro size, then you don't have to condense them (unless you want to).  The FACEatelier pro bottles are travel friendly and already come in a .68oz bottle. Although the glass bottles are 1oz, I highly suggest condensing them into smaller bottles.  You'll fit more product into your 1qt bag and you don't have to worry about them breaking.  The same goes with the MUFE HD.  The MUFE HD bottle is also 1oz and fits TSA regulations but seriously, can we talk about how bulky that bottle is?

For a wonderful post on how to condense your foundations please visit this blog.

So, what will you need?

1 Quart Storage Bags

If you own a Zuca Pro, your bag most likely already came with a TSA friendly 1qt bag.  That's what I use to store all of my liquids.

1qt clear bag with all my liquids

A better look at what's in the clear 1qt bag

What are things that are considered liquids/gels?
*Liquid Foundation
*Some Creams such as Moisturizers, Makeup Removers etc.
*Hand Sanitizer
*Brush Cleaner
*Toner
*Lip Tars

Now, if you check in your kit (which I don't recommend at all), then you don't have to do any of the above.  I personally don't like to check in my kit because I've heard too many horror stories about airlines misplacing and/or losing their bags.  Without your kit, you cannot work and trust me you do not ever want to be caught in that situation.  The only bag I check in is my personal stuff which has my clothing, personal toiletries such as shampoo, conditioner, toothpaste etc.  If the airline happens to misplace or lose that then my job isn't at jeopardy.  I can always rebuy a pair of jeans and a toothbrush if needed.

If I'm doing hair, I also check that in.  It's easier and cheaper to replace a can of hairspray and a hair dryer than buying a whole makeup kit.  Plus, many stores let you return stuff if you're "unhappy" with the product (hair irons, dryers etc.)

A few of my favorite places you can visit for smaller containers to condense:
Yaby Cosmetics
Muji
Qosmedix
Container Store
Manhattan Wardrobe Supply

Another advice I'd like to give is to always carry your business cards or your resume with you at all times.  You never know when the TSA wants to get picky with your bag.  Having proof that you are traveling for work and that you are in fact a makeup artist (and not just some weirdo with a bag full of cosmetics) just might save you.

Condensing my kit was the best decision I've ever made.  It weights way less and until this day I've never had a problem with the TSA.  This storage solution really does work out for the best.  Happy condensing!